Lahore Fashion Week 2010, Event Journal
Lotus PR Press Release
An exciting initiative by the Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) and Sunsilk, February 16th 2010 marked the debut of their first ever fashion week in Pakistan. PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week, being held in the historic city of Lahore, featured 8 ramp shows with 8 distinct designers divided into 2 acts on Day 1. The debut PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week is being styled and choreographed by the creative team at Sabs the Salon and managed by Catwalk Productions with Public Relations by Lotus.
Day-1 Run Through:
Day 1 was attended by the leading media personalities, journalists and buyers from across the country with a diverse number of international news agencies, media and buyers to encourage and support Pakistani fashion industry.
PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week 2010 Day 1’s Act 1 was opened by Nickie Nina to much excitement with their collection entitled ‘The Poetry of Colours’. Their fashion week couture collection was inspired by the women of Swat and their bravery in the face of terror and occupation. Their fashion showcase included a merger of traditional Swati designs and embroidery with Nickie Nina’s contemporary embellishment in a diversity of vibrant hues combined with their signature black and white focus. Actress and television host Nadia Jamil walked the ramp for Nickie Nina.
The sister duo of Nickie and Nina together form the impressive team behind the Lahore based house of haute couture which was launched in 2000. The duo works with a variety of fabrics and their signature style rests on the innovative way they combine two or more textures in a single creation. Nickie Nina have showcased to heads of state and fashionistas alike and last year alone were seen across diverse international fashion destinations including New York, LA, Chicago, Pennsylvania, UK, Geneva, Bahrain and the Emirates. Speaking about their participation in the PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week, the duo has said, “We are honoured to be an integral part of the first Fashion week organized by the Pakistan Fashion Design Council and to be showcasing our couture collection here in Lahore. We have drawn our inspiration from the courageous women of Swat and our Spring/Summer collection is in tribute to their dignity and honour.”
Next on the Lahore runway was the Karachi based designer Nida Azwer enthralling the audience with her womenswear couture collection being entitled ‘Timeless Horizon’. Drawing inspiration from the colour blue and all its diverse hues, ‘Timeless Horizon’ has been conceived and created in muslin, chiffons and soft silk fabrics incorporating foil printing and embroidery. Nida Azwer’s ramp show included children from the SOS childrens’ village walking the ramp for her brand.
Nida has been designing and working in fashion under the aegis of her eponymous label since 2005, only one month after she graduated from the prestigious Indus Valley School of Art & Architecture. Her label includes a Prêt a Porter line, Haute Couture and Bridal lines and Nida herself was nominated for a coveted Lux Style Award for Best Emerging Talent in 2008. In 2009, she held her debut solo show in Karachi to massive acclaim from journalists and fashionistas alike. Everything made under the Nida Azwer label is hand-worked in Pakistan using only pure fabrics including Irish linen, chiffons, hand-woven silks and brocade. The fashion label is also inspired by traditional craftsmanship such as ‘tukri ka kaam’, ‘rilli’ and ‘kantha’ work. Nida Azwer is best known for infusing her label with attention to detail, innovative cuts, silhouettes and tailoring.
“I think fashion week is a great platform for designers to showcase their work. I think it should be supported and I am very glad to be a part of it” says Nida Azwer for being part of PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week 2010.
The final showcase for Day 1 Act 1 was by Khadija Shah bringing her brand Élan to fashion week with a complete collection of both Eastern Prêt a Porter and Haute Couture inspired by the artist Saeed Akhtar and his latest works. The Élan collection colour palette consists of olives, ochre’s, burgundies, crimson, deep hues of pink, burnt oranges and the essential black and gold while incorporating ethnic embellishment with an emphasis on glass, maroori, zardozi and sitara work and fabrics including hand loom silks and chiffons.
Élan is a relatively young fashion label having been launched six years ago by Khadijah Shah. She is respected for her combination of intricate embellishments, flattering silhouettes and attention to detail in the construction of each outfit. Indeed each collection is conceived with glamour, elegance and versatility in mind. Khadijah Shah inherited her design aesthetic from her mother Aneela Shah, who had a small atelier and a loyal clientele for years before Élan was formerly launched. In a short span of six years, Khadijah has formalised and expanded this atelier and created an effective and influential place for her label in the Fashion Industry.
Khadija Shah has said, “The inspiration behind this collection comes for the art of Pakistan’s pre-eminent artist Saeed Akhtar. His latest work centers around tribal women, who he has given the most captivating aura in his paintings…I was able to design a whole collection based on their strangely beautiful faces and the energy in their form and movement. Quite simply, I can vividly imagine these gazelle like females gliding across the desert or reclining on the branch of a tree wearing one of the outfits from Élans PFW collection and being one with their surroundings. The collection is what I absorbed from his paintings primarily and then built upon by researching sub-continental tribal and desert landscape and culture.”
Opening for Day 1’s Act 2 were designers Asifa & Nabeel showcasing their formal womenswear collection. Based in pure fabrics including chiffons and silks with fusion silhouettes, their collection reflects an amalgamation of vibrant embroidery inspired by the Kelash and Kafiristani aesthetic. This collection also draws from the Russian painter and graphic artists’ Wassily Kandinksy painting ‘Composition VII’ in which an oval seems almost the eye of a compositional hurricane, surrounded by swirling masses of colour and form which according to Art scholars, feels like an operatic outburst of pure painting. The collection was a mix of traditional Pakistani threadwork and stones along with Dabka and Zardozi work. Walking the ramp for Asifa & Nabeel was Pakistani pop star Hadiqa Kiyani.
The label Asifa & Nabeel has been established for the past 13 years and is well renowned and respected for their Prêt a Porter, Haute Couture and Bridal lines. The brand currently retails across 3 of Pakistan’s major cities as well as to an international clientele. Indeed their signature style is found in their flamboyant use of diverse fabrics and unique interplay of colors and cuts.
Speaking about their participation in the mega-event, Asifa & Nabeel has said “Platforms like Fashion Week have been most instrumental in the West helping fashion merchants and creators display, market and trade merchandise across the continents. Viewing our participation in a prolific opportunity like PFDC Fashion Week allows us to present our fashion to a diverse assortment of fashion consumers making it possible for the label to spread its wings beyond the scope of limited national ambitions and provides a huge possibility for growth. Such an exchange not only helps the designer / label on a personal level but actually provides Pakistan with an avenue to demonstrate and reveal its true cultural, social and fashion identity…It’s time to show the world who we really are and that we are equally progressive as any other modern nation of the world”
Following Nida Azwer on Day 2 was one of Lahore’s leading designers Sara Shahid showcasing her label Sublime’s Prêt a Porter womenswear collection entitled “Colour me Sublime”. Indeed this Sublime collection heralds a re birth of sorts – a desire to break free from the past and to celebrate a new decade while bringing back the colour to life in a palatte of prints made exclusively for the label by Fab Sublime. The collection was an amalgam of loose flowing silhouettes, pure silks and chiffons, and ethnic thread work on contemporary cuts. Walking the ramp for Sara Shahid was acclaimed television anchor and morning show host Ayeshah Alam Khan.
Designer Sara Shahid launched the Sublime fashion house in 2003 in Pakistan. At its core, the label believes in capturing the quintessence of feminism and natural beauty of a woman, with style with their signature focus on the being of a woman. Sublime’s aesthetic reflects a fusion of the east with the west, where the finest from the past is blended with the contemporary. The results are classic outfits with unassuming, understated glamour. Indeed the brand is already a five time nominee of Pakistan’s most coveted LUX Style Award in their prestigious Prêt a Porter category. The Sublime fashion house features six lines: ‘Sublime Sara’, the prêt line which includes eastern and western wear,’ Sublime Divine’, couture based and bridals, ‘Simply Sublime’, a ready to wear line with light and medium embellished tailored outfits with superior cuts, ‘Sublime.T’, a collaborative line of limited edition T shirts, the ‘Sublime Women Entrepreneur Project’, pieces handcrafted by women who possess skill, but lack the opportunity of being able to pursue a career beyond their homes. The sixth line is ‘Fab Sublime’, a limited edition of exclusive, screen printed chiffons and a ready to wear line from the same fabric. Seasonally, Sublime also introduces limited edition accessories which have previously included leather bags, belts and printed shawls.
“I am very excited to be part of the Fashion Week, it is a fantastic opportunity for all designers across Pakistan to show there collections under one organized and structured umbrella. It is something that this country needed as it gives the designers a direction and focus; it will help to bring out and showcase the best talent to the world. This country is full of culture, a rich heritage, a beautiful collection of fabrics and colours and the most intricate embroideries. This is an opportunity to tap into these vast resources and show them under a united platform at the Pakistan fashion week.” says Sara Shahid.
The next designer to showcase was Ali Xeeshan, with his fashion week couture collection entitled “The Lost Romance by Ali Xeeshan” for both menswear and womenswear. Captivating the audience with his unique concept, his collection was inspired by days of yore while keeping the political and social scenario in mind whilst using a brilliant and bright colour palette to reflect his belief of Pakistan being a nation of colours, carnivals and celebrations. Walking the ramp for Ali Xeesham was Shehzad Raza.
Ali Xeeshan, who is a graduate of the Pakistan Institute of Fashion Design and holds an honours degree in couture, was awarded the best collection from his institute. While predominantly a couturier focusing on formal and bridal wear, Ali has also diversified into a diffusion Prêt a Porter line, a formal collection for men and a complete range of accessories. Ali’s signature style can be found in his use of unusual colour shades and high end luxurious fabrics merged with unconventional embellishment techniques in both traditional and contemporary cuts.
Ali Xeeshan has said, “My inspiration is drawn from the dust of horses’ hooves. Swordsmen and Archers marching across the field. Honor and the stature of royalty… The woman of tradition wears aatishi gulabi with a tikka of Kohinoor. It’s the Nawab Zadi in the dazzling sun, bare footed, spreading the khushbu of Itar. Humming as mithoo, flirting in her own style. The enlightened crystal elegance in the moonlight.”
The Karachi based designer Yousuf Bashir Qureshi showcased both his menswear and womenswear Prêt Porter collections entitled ‘Holey’ at PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week to much amazement, the inspiration for which has been derived from both ‘Holy and Holi’ from which the concepts of Good and Evil have been derived. His collection utilises colour to reflect purity in all forms and draws strength from the designer’s surroundings and his environment. ‘Holey’ is the celebration of the human race without prejudice of colour, race, religion or creed. Each silhouette signifies an influence, each colour represents a space, and each movement defines freedom. The collection also signifies a collaboration of artists from different backgrounds working together as a team, building on each other’s strengths without insecurities. Walking the ramp for YBQ was top Pakistani Sunsilk stylist, Tariq Amin.
Yousuf Bashir Qureshi graduated as a food scientist and was part of the faculty at FIDM, Los Angeles; FIT, New York and in Pakistan at the prestigious Indus Valley School of Art and Architecture in Karachi. He is also an accomplished photographer and the owner of the independent Commune Artists Colony – a space for artists, by artists. He has previously designed for Sheryl Crow and is also the proud recipient of several international awards including the Asian Designer of the Year, Coalition of Los Angeles Designers 2000 in the Creative category and Best Prêt wear designer award in Milan for Trussardi, to name a few.
Yousuf recently opened the YBQ Concept Studio in Karachi and launched his first ever collection in Pakistan, entitled “Fresh Difficulties” to much acclaim.
“I have always believed that through art and artist’s we can actually build the soft boundaries that we hear politician’s talk about globally. Fashion Week is the path that will not only unite the artist’s but at the same time show the world what Pakistan and Pakistani’s have to offer in terms of fashion, art and peace.” says Yousuf about PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week.
Day 1’s Act 2 Finale featured Iman Ahmed who brought her acclaimed label, Body Focus Museum to fashion week with a Prêt a Porter womenswear collection entitled “Flights of Fantasy and Escapism”. Inspired by the melting pot of cultures with a specific influence by the Greek culture, Iman’s collection received a standing ovation from the audience and included both Prêt and luxury Prêt pieces in pure silks and georgettes staying true to the brands’ signature contemporary chic style.
The Body Focus Museum was launched by Iman Ahmad in 1988 with a focus on contemporary elegance. The brand is coveted for its universality and functionality combined with the House’s lean and spare lines, fine tailoring and defined silhouettes. Iman herself is one of the pioneers of the Pakistani Fashion Industry and a precursor to the minimalist creations of younger designers. In 2009, Iman Ahmed won the award for best Prêt wear designer at the prestigious Lux Style Awrads. Iman’s muse and guiding light, is the female form and her raison d’être has always been to accentuate the sensuality of the female figure in a subtly inspiring way.
“It is the element of universality which I try to blend with various design and multicultural elements, keeping the end product modern, elegant and poetically pared down…with each piece paying homage to the body, treating it like a sensual piece of art” says Iman about her collection.
Day-2 Run Through:
With a diversity of celebrities, models, designers and media in attendance, PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week 2010 Day-2 started with a bang. Opening for Act 1 was the Karachi based model turned designer Sadaf Malaterre showcasing her womenswear collection. Mainly inspired by all that which surrounds her and more specifically, colour, her collection was based in pure silks and satins and is dedicated to the memory of acclaimed Pakistani artist and her dear friend, the late Asim Butt who inspired the designer and constantly encouraged the designer to experiment with colour.
The Sadaf Malaterre brand label epitomizes the results of experimentation with clothes and the ability to have fun with fashion. Boho chic by day and glamorous during evening soirees, Sadaf Malaterre’s fashion aesthetic captures an ingrained free spirited bohemianism. In a very short period of time, the label has become one of the most talked about designers in Pakistan. Indeed Sadaf’s design philosophy focuses on a continuous tribute to the celebration of life.
“I am glad that Pakistan has finally started having fashion weeks; this will definitely make the fashion industry more prominent globally” says Sadaf Malaterre.
Following Sadaf was Lahore based designer Yahsir Waheed showcasing his Prêt a Porter collection, ‘Kee Janah Meh Kon’, a line drawn from a famous Kafi written over 400 years ago by Punjabi Sufi poet Baba Bulleh Shah which the designer states hold true till today. Indeed the collection is designer Yashir Waheed’s interpretation of the current political and social turmoil and the confusion of our times. Through ‘Kee Janah Meh Kon’, Yahsir endevaours to explore beauty and hope in imperfection, with asymmetrical cuts, distressed fabrics, prints and bursts of color. Yahsir’s collection was focused on womenswear with select pieces for men, all in pure silks, chiffon and cotton.
Yahsir Waheed started his career as a knitwear designer at a textile company, after completing his studies in textile design from the renowned National College of Arts in Lahore and two years specializing in knitwear design from the UK. In 1992 he started a label “Ai No Corrida”, which was a first of its kind, trendy label for the urban youth. Yahsir emphasise the need of quality fashion education in Pakistan and to this end, in 1994 when the Government started the Pakistan School of Fashion Design, Yahsir joined the school as a faculty member. The eponymous Yahsir Waheed label was launched in 1999 by Brimful Designs, a Lahore based multi-faceted design studio that delves into commercial applications related to design aesthetics. It forayed into creative and commercial successes in the area of fashion textiles with its brand “Yahsir Waheed Lawn” in 1999, and pioneered a new direction for designer fabrics. It was the first designer lawn label which was designed, manufactured and marketed exclusively by a design house.
Speaking about local fashion industry, Yahsir has said, “It’s a very exciting time for the Fashion Industry of Pakistan. It’s a first step in the right direction; Fashion is a multi billion dollar industry worldwide and Pakistan with its unique textiles, crafts and design can also be part of this international industry…Fashion is just not glamour though that’s an integral part of it but it’s also about business and exports and that is what are final aim should be. We can start by tapping into the domestic and regional markets and make a brand which can eventually go global…”
PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week 2010 believes in supporting aspiring designers and in this regard students from two of the leading fashion schools showcased their respective collections. First up was the preeminent Pakistan School of Fashion Design (PSFD), established in 1995, which has now been transformed into a larger organization and renamed as Pakistan Institute of Fashion and Design (PIFD). The PIFD student led fashion ensembles showcased at the fashion week were designed and finished by students based on individual themes and received a long applause by the house-full audience. The second school to showcase their collection was the Karachi based Asian Institute of Fashion Design. The collection being presented by the students of AIFD synchronized the different themes selected by them and showcased their creativity and talent. The presentation depicted a fluid movement of diverse cuts and an innovative color palette, symbolizing the aesthetics and techniques taught at the Asian Institute of
Fashion Design.
Closing Day-2’s Act 1 was Mehdi with his fashion week womenswear couture collection entitled ‘Romance’. A Spring/Summer 2010 line, ‘Romance’ was inspired by fantasy and magic and draws from a world filled with innocence and the essence of love. Mehdi’s fashion week collection included chiffon fabrics in the pearly hues of ivory, mushroom and dry pink with a touch of cotton, satin and denim embellished with thread work, beads and pearls with an ethnic flavour.
Designer Mohammad Mehdi, a graduate of the prestigious Pakistan School of Fashion Design launched his first collection in 2002. Today, he has showcased in New York, Houston, Miami, Chicago, Los Angeles, London, Romania, Karachi, Lahore and Islamabad. Mehdi also recently participated at the prestigious Portland Fashion Week in Oregon. Mehdi’s design philosophy centers on creating pieces for the modern woman who dares to be different yet maintain her cultural roots. Mehdi is currently retailed in Lahore, Karachi, Islamabad, Dubai, Chicago, New York, and Los Angeles and will be also be launching in Portland.
Speaking about his participation in PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week 2010, Mehdi has said, “I am really excited to be a part of a fashion week here in Pakistan. I have done a huge number of fashion shows all across the globe. It feels great that we are going to put Pakistan on the map of the global fashion scene”
After a short break, PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week Day 2 Act 2 was opened by the young Karachi based fashion designer Feeha Jamshed showcasing Prêt a Porter collection for her brand TEEJAYS entitled ‘Diamond City’. Focussing on womenswear along with pieces for men, the brands showcase was inspired by Lahore, which the designer interpreted as a city that is indeed a ‘diamond’ in every sense: culturally, historically, physiologically and politically. In this ode to Lahore, Feeha Jamshed’s emphasis lied in cuts and the cotton fabric, Pakistan’s national export. Walking the ramp for Feeha were designers Kamiar Rokni, Rizwanullah, Model Iffat Omar & make up artist Shehzad Raza.
TEEJAYS was started in 1970 as a movement by Tanvir Jamshed in order to create affordable fashion for all – to break down the trend of obvious disparity in the way the nation dressed. Feeha Jamshed joined her father Tanvir’s movement and while her signature is similar to the TEEJAYS brand aesthetic, it is distinct in that she emphasises specifically on the cut, simplicity and the style of her designs. TEEJAYS has in the past been a recipient of the prestigious Lux Style Award and the Indus Style Award for Lifetime Achievement. Tanvir Jamshed was awarded the Sitar-i-Imtiaz, the highest civilian award in Pakistan, owing to his contribution in fashion thus making him the only fashion designer or label to ever receive such an honour.
Speaking about local fashion industry, Feeha Jamshed has said, “It is great to have been part of a fashion week that happened in Karachi and now that it’s happening in Lahore. It’s great to be part of a big change that’s happening in our country because it shows that fashion is accessible to the real consumers that are the common people of the country and international buyers that come here rather than a few designers going abroad. I feel proud of my country”
Next up was fashion designer Saima Yousaf who showcased her label Hoorain’s formal womenswear collection, entitled ‘Universe’. As the name suggests, this line was indeed inspired by nature, the sun, shades of moon and earth and included western cuts merged with eastern heritage and had shades of silver, golden and black.
Saima Yousaf’s Hoorain label is primarily known for is Haute Couture and its signature style focusing on luster, shine and vibrancy. Saima Yousaf’s has been running her own textile mill Harrappa, and her design aesthetic can be viewed as an amalgam between tangible eastern influences and that which is bold. The brand has previously showcased at the coveted Bridal Asia in 2007 and at a prestigious crossover show by Sunil Sethi.
Speaking about her collection, Saima has said, “An amalgam between tangible eastern influences and very bold…blended western cuts into eastern heritage”
Following Hoorain was young Pret focused brand Muse who showcased their Autumn/Winter 2010/2011 womenswear Prêt a Porter collection at PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week. The inspiration behind the collection was the aesthetic of the 1940’s era which favored tailored separates, high-waisted pants and skirts and glamorous belted dresses. The design house updated this aesthetic with the use of intricate embroideries and lace to give an edgier and more romantic feel. Their collection was based in a diversity of silks, cottons and wools and embellishments were found in pallets, beads, pearls and laces. Walking the ramp for Muse was socialite Sanam Taseer.
Launched in early 2009 by Moeed Yousaf, Muse is a new contemporary womenswear fashion line. The label’s philosophy is to make clothes with modern lines using luxurious fabrics and hand-embellished with motifs inspired by contemporary design. The idea for Muse was born in Paris, with a desire to bring a new aesthetic to Pakistan. Upon his return to the country, Moeed teamed up with Indus Valley graduate Faryal Aftab as co-creative director and together they launched their flagship Muse outlet in Lahore and later in Karachi at the Pakistan Fashion Design Council multi brand retail outlet.
“The Muse philosophy is to develop and promote a new aesthetic of contemporary fashion by taking inspiration from design and craft…our aim is to create timeless pieces that are unique – painstakingly stitched by a handful of skilled craftsman and worked and reworked over weeks and weeks” says Moeed.
Day 2 Act 2 was headlined by the Kamiar Rokni fashion label who showcased both Prêt a Porter and Haute Couture collections entitled ‘East, West, North, South’ a name illustrative of both their national and global influences. Indeed it was an organic extension of the label’s ‘folkcentric’ aesthetic which stormed the catwalks in 2009. For East, West, North, South, the house of Kamiar Rokni focused on indigenous fabrics and embellishments inspired by traditional techniques. This collection featured a versatile range of ready to wear; from kaftans to billowing tunics, jackets and statement pieces. The fashion house revealed an emphasis on tailoring details and silhouette with an overall aesthetic lending itself to simplicity and a simple lack of fuss. Indeed Kamiar Rokni’s collection marked a departure from their signature burst of vibrant colour; this collection’s colour palette is more controlled and one can expect a diversity of fabrics including cotton based wear to satin and velvet. The label inspired to showcase a collection that is simultaneously elegant, timeless and relevant all at once. Kamiar Rokni’s major inspirations for this collection lie with an exposure to the world in which we live and the myriad hues it has to offer from all four corners of the globe. The label is constantly inspired by craft, textile and ethnicity and the latest collection encompasses all of these elements in a minimal modern manner. The Kamiar Rokni muse, model Maliha Naipaul walked the ramp for the Kamiar Rokni fashion label.
The house of Kamiar Rokni has received an overwhelming response from a trusted clientele with the team now designing for clients in places as diverse as Italy, Holland, USA, England, France, Canada, Dubai and Greece to name just a few. The luxury label’s Prêt a Porter and Haute Couture collections hit the runways in Karachi and Lahore, Pakistan last year to critical acclaim. In 2008, the label had the much coveted honour of having been nominated for Pakistan’s biggest style awards, The Lux Style Awards in the best Prêt wear category. Kamiar himself is an international award winning designer having received an award in Japan at the Makuhari Grand Prix design competition. The fashion house was also nominated as best Couture Designer at the Lux Style Awards in 2009. In March 2010, Kamiar Rokni will be showcasing their Autumn/Winter collection at Paris Fashion Week.
Kamiar Rokni says, “Fashion celebrates life. It is an expression of our cultural, personal and artistic identity. A great outfit is a leap of the imagination, an adventure and it has the power to transform us and the world we live in”
Day-3 Run Through:
An amalgam of excitement, colour, glitz and glamour, Day 3 at PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week opened with the husband and wife duo, Sarah Salman showcasing their Spring/Summer 2010 Prêt a Porter collection, aimed at today’s women, entitled ‘Beautiful Me’. Based in a diversity of fabrics including chiffon, satin and lace, the ‘Beautiful Me’ collection focused on elegant and easy to wear silhouettes with embellishment mainly in swarovski, sequins and stones and a palatte of colours in an overall S/S 2010 look which is not age focussed but rather conceived for a mindset willing to experiment and have fun with their fashion.
Launched originally in 1997 with the vision of creating unique bridal wear, elegant formal wear and trendy ready to wear, Sarah Salman the brand has taken part in a variety of international exhibitions and fashion shows, the most recent being at Sheridan Manchester where the brand launched formal bridal wear for British Asians.
Designer Sarah herself, is a graduate in clothing & textiles from the College of Home Economics in Lahore. Indeed the Sarah Salman design philosophy focuses on treating each day as the birth of a new idea, new design and a new statement. Sarah Salman is currently retailed in Lahore, Karachi, Islamabad, Atlanta, Manchester and Wembley and will also be opening soon in Faisalabad.
“Our lines are about lots of colours carefully balanced, simple yet interesting cuts and traditionally handcrafted details merged in the contemporary context” says Sarah Salman about their collection.
Next to showcase was industry stalwart Rehana Saigol who showcased her womenswear couture collection, ‘Beyond Ivory’. Staying true to her vision and philosophy of bringing back the saree to ones wardrobe, her collection presented variations on the traditional 6 yards of fabrics, contemporising and glamorising the saree. ‘Beyond Ivory’ was crafted on a variety of fabrics such as georgette, net, velvet and tissue and embellished with threadwork, crystals, beads, dabka, kora, and sequins. Model and Actress Juggun Kazim and Karachi-based designer Deepak Perwani walked the ramp for Rehana Saigol.
A pioneer in Jewellery design, Rehana Saigol launched her womenswear label less than two years ago, when she opened her first outlet in Karachi. Her vision has consistently focused on romancing Pakistani women back to wearing the saree. Indeed Rehana’s own love affair with the saree has been one of the most enduring of her passions as she believes it to be feminine and its alluring in all its forms.
Rehana Saigol has said, “I am always experimenting with different styles of structuring the Saree, going beyond the traditional 6 yards of fabric”
Following Rehana’s fashion showcase was designer Hajra Hayat who presented her fashion week formal womenswear collection entitled “The Power Line”. Inspired by the season and earthy tones it encourages, the collection’s colour palette ranged from bronzes and golds to mustards and saffrons with thread work and embellishments in cuts that are structured and based in raw silks and chiffons peppered with Pakistani hand-woven fabrics. Lollywood actor Moammar Rana along with his wife walked the ramp for Hajra Hayat.
Hajra Hayat is a brand renowned for combining different textures and fabrics merging together to form unique creations. Indeed her brand philosophy focuses on the bold and the beautiful; for those who believe looking glamorous is their right. The fashion house is well regarded for their work as couturiers and for their bridal collections. The brand has shown both locally and internationally and indeed prides itself on detail in design being a cohesive factor of all Hajra Hayat lines.
The designer has said, “At Hajra Hayat inspirations always come from the confident yet elegant woman of today who embraces her femininity and still maintains a strong sense of her presence”
Closing for Day 3’s Act 1 was Nayna who showcased their formal collection entitled ‘Timeless Classics’. The inspiration behind the collection is rooted deep within Pakistan’s cultural heritage and the results of traditional cutting techniques on the catwalk infused with embellishment primarily in traditional ‘Gota’ fused with thread work, metallic kora and dabka work. The ‘Timeless Classics’ collection was based in chiffons, georgette chiffons and heavy double georgette and includes both western and eastern silhouettes.
Designer Saman Arif is the aesthetic force behind the Nayna label. Indeed, nearly three years after the brand first unveiled its collection at an exhibition in New York, Nayna was voted among the top ten designers in the country. In May 2005, Nayna launched its collection in Pakistan with an exclusive fashion show in Lahore; the show was in collaboration with Christian Dior, Tag Heuer and Fendi watches. It was the first time that the aforementioned super brands worked in partnership with a local brand. In 2006, Nayna was nominated by Indus Network at the Indus Style Awards as among the top four young upcoming designer labels. The same year, the fashion house formed a partnership agreement with United Nations World Food Program (UNWFP) – indeed a manifestation of the brand’s attitude towards fashion and social responsibility. In 2007, Nayna was shortlisted for the Young British Fashion Entrepreneur of the year award. In 2009, the label went global as the only designer in the country boasting of a franchise model for its international expansion plan, similar to that of an international FMCG brands, Nayna now has franchise partners in California, Chicago, Washington DC, Texas, Dubai, Leicester, London, Manchester and Toronto.
“We have done many shows in the past, both locally and internationally, including Washington DC Fashion Week 2009. But for so many local designers to come on one platform and present Pakistan in its true essence and liking is a different feeling altogether” says Saman Arif appreciating PFDC’s and Sunsilk’s efforts.
After a short break, PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week Day 3’s Act 2 was opened by the Karachi based label Khaadi who showcased their fashion week Autumn/Winter 2010 Prêt a Porter collection, “The Ties Of Freedom”. The collection focused on contemporary urban street wear with fabrics inspired by the Central Asian Ikat thereby consisting of mainly hand woven silks and screen printed silks, complemented by jersey, silks and chiffons. Khaadi presented urban menswear and womenswear that is edgy with an emphasis on silhouettes created by cowls, drapery and paneling coupled with loose voluminous shapes and constructed jackets. Unfortunately, head designer Shamoon Sultan of Khaadi was unable to attend his show due to an illness that left him hospitalized.
Khaadi Khaas’ Prêt a Porter is an extension of retail giant Khaadi, synonymous with hand-woven fabric and other handmade products across Pakistan. Khaadi Khaas was launched in 2008 with a vision to add exclusivity to the Khaadi brand. The result is a formal Prêt a Porter brand where exclusivity meets tradition which embodies style, elegance and individuality from classic, sleek lines to trendy splashes of colour. With textile design graduate and entrepreneur Shamoon Sultan as the force behind Khaadi, what started as a small venture with a few weavers has now grown ten-fold. Today, not only does Khaadi has its own production facility with a team of experienced weavers, it also has many other skilled artisans creating a wide array of products ands retails across 5 major cities in Pakistan through 13 retail outlets. A further testament to it success are four Lux Style Awards the brand has won including ‘Best Men’s Wear’ (2002, 2005), and ‘Best Retail Store’ (2006, 2007). Khaadi was also short listed as one of the 10 contestants for International Young Fashion Entrepreneur (IYFE) Award in 2008.
“It’s a great beginning of a new chapter for the Pakistani Fashion Industry, where, eventually we will be able to make our presence felt in the global market…Fashion Weeks are very crucial for an industry, provided it is able to meet the international standards” says Shamoon Sultan.
Next designer to showcase was the edgy Ammar Belal presenting his westernwear fashion week collection, ‘The King Of Pop’. As the title suggested, the collection was inspired by Michael Jackson – more specifically, the ‘Thriller’ era and the subsequent punk rock look complete with zipping and studding detail for both men and women. His post – ‘Dangerous’ influence within this collection was symbolized through military style embroideries and braiding on tailored jackets and various silhouettes. The collection ranged from casualwear and streetwear to cocktail dresses and gown. A lot of emphasis was given to gold in the ‘Kind Of Pop’ collection along with hints of Red, Navy and Black on Banarsi prints paired with denim and leather. With a standing ovation for the collection, the models walked down the ramp to the King of Pop’s beats and also featured fashion designers Deepak Perwani, Sadaf Malaterre, stylist Asmaa Mumtaz and leading pop musician Hadiqa Kiyani.
Ammar started his career in 2003 with his streetwear brand A.B.C.D, which offered basic casualwear with a quirky sense of design. His progressive approach to showcasing fashion through his music videos and films has earned him various awards that include Best Emerging Designer (Lux 2005), Best Menswear Designer (Indus 2006), Best Prêt Designer(Sunday 2008) and Best English Song (MTV/Indus 2006). Ammar also gained acclaim through his couture jeans label; AS Jeans and was featured in Womens Wear Daily magazine (New York) for his unique approach towards custom made denim. The renowned stylist Patricia Fields (Sex & the City) stocks AS Jeans at her New York boutique and they have been worn by the likes of Margherita Missoni, Kelly Rippa, and Boy George. The Ammar Belal label itself was launched in the summer of 2007 and prides itself on being the first luxury brand from Pakistan that adheres to the highest international standards of quality. It is the only Pakistani Fashion house that outsources their manufacturing to Europe and is involved only at the design and marketing stages of its products. The Ammar Belal label has outlets in Lahore, Karachi and Faisalabad.
Speaking about his participation in PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week 2010, Ammar has said, “I am very excited to be a part of the fashion week in Lahore and looking forward to showcasing my work with some of the finest designers in our country. I also believe that this is just the beginning of Pakistan’s exposure to the international fashion scene. It will be a learning experience for us and we as an industry have a long way to go after this initial step”
Following Ammar Belal on Day 3 was Tazeen Hasan who showcased her Prêt a Porter womenswear collection entitled ‘Symphony’. Her inspiration behind the collection was the sound of music which to Tazeen symbolizes harmony and tranquillity and ultimately a balance. The fabric used in creating this collection was based in chiffons; the cuts were clean and soft with an extensive use of bugle beads and matte sequins and colour as an accent throughout the collection.
Tazeen Hasan’s personal design aesthetic rests on the understated, elegant, precise, and meticulous. Starting with small custom orders from her home in the year 1990, she has carved her own impregnable space in the world of Pakistani Fashion and has expanded from Prêt to Couture and for the last 6 years into Fabric Embellishment and Design. Tazeen was nominated as the ‘Best Womenswear Designer 1995’ at the coveted Lux Style Awards held in Dubai. She participated in the ‘Bridal Asia’ showcase in New Delhi, India in 2006 and has represented Pakistan at the ‘SAARC women’s Conference’ with a fashion show in 2008. She has the credit of being the first designer in Pakistan to change the face of machine embroidery using unconventional methods. With minimalist themes and inspiration rooted in function rather than pure appearance, creations by Tazeen Hasan are designed to fit into the larger canvas of life.
Tazeen has said, “I think our fashion industry can try to contribute by bringing a softer more cultured image forward. It’s also a great opportunity for putting out best work forward.”
Day 3’s finale featured the Karma design house who brought to the catwalk their “One Thousand and One Arabian Nights” collection. Inspired by the folklore and fables of ancient Arabia, the collection finds its roots in the tales of Sheherezade and the history embodied by the drama and mysticism of that era. The mood of this collection was to be equally empowering, dramatic, opulent and strong. Indeed the colours, motifs and embellishment take life and form the ethnicity and age old refinement of mysterious lands along with the sweeping, dramatic and seductive silhouettes. The collection fabrics range from limited edition brocades, deluxe hand woven kamkhabs, beaten hand woven tissues and diaphanous silks covering the complete colour spectrum reminiscent of the sands of the desert to the intense color of the Arabian court. Embellishment motifs included jewel and nature based inspirations based on the treasures of Ali Baba as well as the travels of Sinbad and were set with different materials varying from crystals, semi precious stones, gold coins, glass beads, seed pearls and traditional ethnic materials. The look was expensive regality and the essence of the collection is classic seductive opulence. Jamal Hammadi was specially flown in from Los Angeles to style the collection and fashion designer Hassan Sheheryar Yasin featured as a guest DJ.
The house of Karma was founded in year 2000 and is completing a definitive decade in fashion this year. The journey began with the aim of capturing its share in Pakistan’s growing couture industry. Driven by principles of originality, glamour and professionalism, the team at Karma embraced its mission giving first priority to satisfying its clientele. Today Karma is known to deliver style, taste and elegance and in doing so, it is revamping the image of the Eastern girl. With Maheen Kardar Ali as the fashion force behind the label and Saad Ali as CEO, Karma has not only won the Lux Style Award three times which includes the best Women’s Wear for Karma, Couture in Karachi and Dubai and the best Prêt wear for Karma Pink in Malaysia but as a company, revolutionized its sector as the market leader in providing a high fashion retail experience.
“The Karma woman of today is multi faceted and acts in various roles. She is a powerhouse at work, a glamorous socialite, a Jane Austen fan, a provocative teenager, an elegant mother of three, a Chanel 5 addict…Though she channels numerous roles and responsibilities, the ultimate vision is always singular, the love of being a goddess, a siren, a diva, a woman, a success” says Maheen Kardar about her vision for the house of Karma.
Day-4 Run Through:
Day 4 marked the closing day of PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week, February 2010, in Lahore. Day 4 was buzzing with fashion, music and high drama! The evening’s opening show was staged by Karachi based designer Nomi Ansari, with his collection “The Circus of Life”. This collection was a celebration of colour, layers and textures fused with a stylized and festive silhouette. His collection symbolised the re creation of fabrics through the use of innovative techniques along with a varied mixture of chiffons, silks, cottons, voiles, organzas, laces, crepes and nets. ‘The Circus of Life’ was Nomi Ansari’s most vibrant collection to date and will feature a variety of accessories, bustiers, jackets, skinnies, skirts, tops, drapes and volume. Walking the ramp for Nomi Ansari was designer and PFDC Spokesperson Hassan Sheheryar Yasin.
Fashion designer Nomi Ansari launched his eponymous label the same year he graduating from the Pakistan School of Fashion Design in 2001. He is best known for his unique command over diverse colour palettes and his bold cuts fused with traditional and intricate embroidery. Nomi Ansari has showcased his label across the UK, USA, India, Singapore, UAE and Malaysia and in Pakistan; he was awarded Designer of the Year in 2005 and best womenswear Designer at the Pakistan Style Awards in 2007.
Act 1’s second show belonged to understated designer Sahar Atif and her label Saai who showcased her Prêt a Porter womenswear collection entitled “Gulistani Sahar”. Indeed it was a sensual collection amalgamating in itself a fusion of various textures, fabrics, embroideries and a feminine seductive silhouette. The dramatic monochrome colour palette of this collection exhibited the changing seasons and times in the gulistan. ‘Gulistani Sahar’ was inspired by the regional embroideries of rural Pakistan and endeavours to showcase the beauty of Pakistani’s rural areas to all audiences. Models strutted out to a selection of the brand ‘Strings’ songs with the finale of her show including the pop duo Strings themselves to come down the ramp and sing live!
Sahar Atif is a designer renowned for her unique focus on having created and sustained her affordable designer wear label, Saai. A graduate of the first batch of PIFD, she encapsulates the spirit of entrepreneurship with her expanding brand Saai and academia through her work as a teacher within the realms of fashion. Sahar also currently heads the Design and Textile Department at the Lahore Grammar School and is currently working in close coordination with the University of Cambridge in the implementation and designing of an A’level module in textile, design and fashion, being offered globally for the first time. In 2003, Sahar diversified from fashion education to designing and launched her label ‘Saai’, initially focusing on bridal and formal wear. In July 2005 ‘Saai Concepts’ was launched with its retail outlet in Lahore. In 2007 Sahar showcased her Saai bridal collection at the coveted ‘Bridal Asia’ in New Delhi to an overwhelming response from media and buyers alike. The 2009 bridal season witnessed a further collaborative partnership, this time between Saai and a Manchester based retailer, who launched their debut collection at the Asiana Bridal Show in January 2009 to much acclaim.
Veteran Karachi based designer Shaiyanne Malik took the ramp after Sahar Atif and showcasing her label SamanZar’s formal collection entitled ‘Kama’. The SamanZar collection reflected the designer’s ode to love and through fashion, offered a plea to invoke a positive passion stronger than the current negativity. ‘Kama’ was also inspired by ancient and lost civilizations. This collection including both women and men’s wear in a combination of conventional fabrics including silks and jamawars fused with unconventional fabrics like linen and raw cotton. Walking the ramp for Shaiyanne Malik were actresses Fizza and Sana and stylist Natasha Saigol.
The SamamZar fashion house was launched by Shaiyanne Malik over two decades ago and is known particularly for its bridal and couture and lines – to date Shaiyanne Malik’s forte are her label’s embellishments and embroideries. The label’s signature is to create collections steeped in historical romance and culture. The inspiration for the name of the label came from Shaiyanne’s children, Saman and Zarmand, Samanzar being the amalgamation of both which together means a garden of jasmine flowers. A leading name in Pakistani fashion, Shaiyanne is an award winning designer who has represented Pakistani fashion internationally and showcased across Pakistan to much acclaim. In the year 2000, she represented Pakistan and SamanZar won four significant awards including: the best country presentation, best ensemble, best designer and best model at the International Silk Route Festival in Istanbul, Turkey where nine countries participated.
Headlining Act 1 were Faraz and Sundas Manan with her label Rouge. Rouge’s diverse diffusion collection included womenswear with a selection of menswear pieces. Entitled ‘The Rebel’, this collection was inspired by rebellious royals, Spanish matadors and Jodhpur polo players thereby giving the line an overall vintage look and feel. Pieces included bolero jackets and cocktail dresses featuring Polki jewelled embroideries with antique naqshi and kora with a twist for a more wild and rugged aesthetic. ‘The Rebel’ was based in a contemporary and classic mix of fabrics including jersey, silk and satin with a hint of cotton silk and as the name rouge signifies, each piece also featured the shade itself. Rouge’s fashion week collection also included a denim line in collaboration with retail brand Stoneage, incorporating a new stretch denim fabric. Walking the ramp for Rouge was acclaimed stylist Shehzad Raza.
Inspired by their mother and designer Memoona Manan, Sundas and Faraz Manan, the brother and sister duo behind the Rouge fashion house are sought after for their couture and bridal wear, locally and internationally. With Faraz’s degree in Economics and Sundas as a graduate from the coveted London College of Fashion, Rouge has had the honour of designing couture for Victoria Beckham as well as the Saudi Royal Family and Sundas herself has styled Bollywood celebrity Deepika Padukone for a series of scenes in her movie, ‘Love Aaj Kal’. Rouge has shown at a diversity of international fashion destinations including New York, Bombay and Dubai and in Pakistan, has been nominated for best Couture at the prestigious Lux Style Awards.
After a short break, the second act of the last day of fashion week commenced with a video put together by designer YBQ for magazine and fashion label Libas, headed by PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week chairperson Sehyr Saigol. This included a short showcase of models displaying heritage Libas couture from a vintage Libas collection including pieces for a collection made entirely out of Burqas.
Libas’ showcase was followed by popular designer Maria B, whose fashion week womenswear Prêt a Porter collection, ‘Urban Rajistan’ drew inspiration from the state of Rajistan. This collection was based in a diversity of cotton fabrics indigenous to Pakistan in a conscious bid to promote the local textile industry. Maria B walked the ramp with her daughter, designer Feeha Jamshed and a Pakistani flag in tow!
Maria.B is the largest manufacturer and retailer of women’s fashion in Pakistan. Her eponymous brand was launched with a vision to revolutionise retail in the country and to create Pakistan’s first women’s fashion brand after her graduation from the prestigious Pakistan School of Fashion Design in 1998. Today, Maria B has 11 outlets across the country and 5 brands under the label including: Mafia casuals, Mgirl, Maria B evening, Maria B lawn and Maria B brides. In 1997 Maria won an international fashion competition held in Belgium by the name of “Les Etoiles de la Mode”. Here she was also named as one of the three upcoming designers in the world. Maria B has always worked on an export oriented strategy, for which purpose her product lines have been displayed at fashion events across the world including Chicago( 2001), France -Paris (Pret-a-Porter,2001) U.S.A-New York (2002), Thailand- Bangkok(Bangkok International Fashion Fair, 2002),U.K-Birmingham(South Asian Fashion Mela, 2002), U.S.A-Los Angeles (2003) ,U.S.A-Washington DC (2004), and the U.K Manchester (Asian Brides Show, 2004). Maria B’s future plans look to double the existing workforce to meet production requirements for the new London outlet and export related production for UAE and UK. Maria B is currently available in Lahore, Karachi, Islamabad, Faisalabad, New Delhi, Dubai and Manchester.
Islamabad based designer Sobia Nazir showcased her prêt a porter womenswear collection entitled “Sequence of Bloom”; this was bohemian inspired with fresh colour combinations, dynamic prints and modern silhouettes. “Sequence of Bloom” was crafted on a diversity of fabrics including French chiffons and crepe silks and with zardozi and crystal embellishment, appliqué, and thread work.
Indeed Sobia Nazir in many ways pioneered the Islamabad fashion scene having started her career over a decade ago. To date, Sobia’s label has continued to grow organically securing both its national and international presence. With her current flagship outlet in Islamabad, Sobia has also showcased at the prestigious Dubai Fashion Week for three consecutive years and also continues to participate in shows across the world. Her work has appeared on the cover pages of fashion publications including Harpers Bazaar, Libas, Asiana and Asian Woman among many others. In 2008, Sobia Nazir was honoured as ‘Best Pakistani designer of the year’ by the Asian Style awards. The same year, she also launched her debut line of exclusive and elegant lawn fabric followed by her second one for Spring/Summer 2009. Her latest lawn print collection will be launched in March 2010.
Munib Nawaz followed Sobia Nazir with formal menswear collection entitled ‘Kushti 2010’, inspired by the strength and courage found in the traditional form of wrestling within the Sub Continent. Within this collection, Munib presented the contemporary version of the kushti/wrestlers. His use of fabrics included silk blends, cottons, linen and silk blended wool for the more structured pieces. On the ramp was contemporary embellishment with cuts and straight seams set to highlight masculinity and structure throughout this collection. Walking the ramp for Munib Nawaz was actor and popular musician Fawad Khan.
Munib Nawaz as a designer is a progressive idealizer and indeed a believer in what can be achieved rather than what has been achieved. His collections cater to those who believe in elegance, opulence and style without boundaries. Indeed Munib is a fashion force recognised both nationally and internationally; He has been nominated on numerous occasions for Pakistan’s top fashion award, the Lux Style, for best Menswear and last year, after his acclaimed showcase at Miami Fashion Week, received the prestigious Men’s Style Designer of the Year award at the Week itself.
“Although HSY has been actively involved in multiple fashion events across the globe, with countless individual and group shows to its credit, it is always with immense pride and pleasure that we display our collection at home”
HSY’s was indeed the finale show at the debut PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week. HSY brought to Lahore his couture menswear and womenswear collection entitled ‘Mumtaz Jehan’. The inspiration for this collection is drawn from the inherent beauty of life and featured a video of HSY’s brand and its chronology with pop sensation Ali Zafar as the brand’s showstopper, performing his new, as yet unreleased song ‘Jhoom’ for his new album, also titled ‘Jhoom’, for the first time in Pakistan. This was also the first time a Pakistan cosmetic brand Luscious, tied up with a design house with all HSY giveaways including a special eyeshadow palate to recreate the HSY ramp look.
Established in 2000, HSY is predominantly a bridal house specializing in couture best known for combining contemporary silhouettes with traditional techniques of old. Indeed this synthesis is the cornerstone of the design philosophy at HSY. The brand’s inspiration is distinctly Pakistani and Middle Eastern peppered with Western influences. Easily recognized as one of the biggest names in fashion in the region, Hassan Sheheryar Yasin is the fashion force behind the label and has been referred to as the ‘New King of Couture’ by Harpers Bazaar. Hassan himself holds an honours degree in Couture from the Pakistan School of Fashion Design, an affiliate of La Chambre Syndicate De La Couture Parisienne, France. Currently serving as a member of the board of directors of the Pakistan Fashion Institution, Hassan is also one of the founding members of the PFDC and the recipient of multiple ‘Designer of the Year’ awards including the Ahlan Fashion and Lifestyle awards 2009, the Lux Style Award in 2005 as well as in 2007 in Malaysia, the Most Stylish Fashion Icon at the MTV Style Awards in 2008 and Style Guru of the year by Indus Style awards in 2007. One of the I.Q magazine’s top 20 Fashion Icons of the world in 2009 and amongst Ahlan’s Hot 100 people 2009 and 2010, Hassan has been actively involved in the world of fashion for over 15 years.
The evening concluded with a brief announcement of the Libas Awards 2010 which included the following categories:
Libas Award for Heritage [Translating indigenous art and craft into fashion] – Awarded to the House of Kamiar Rokni [Kamiar Rokni & Tia Noon]
Libas Award for ‘Less Is More’ [The most the understated yet impactful designer] – Awarded to Sara Shahid for her label Sublime
Libas Award for Most Promising Designer of the Week: Award to PIFD graduate Ali Xeeshan.
Libas Award for Designer of the Week: Awarded to Iman Ahmed of Body Focus
Libas Award for Best Female Model: Awarded to Nadia Hussain
Libas Award for Best Male Model: Mohammad
